How to’s: primers, concealers and neutralizing powders

primers, concealers and powder; Euchlora.com

I have been burning the candle at both ends lately with the project that my husband and I have undertaken in our time off.  As a result, I have darker than usual circles around my dust-induced allergy laden eyes.  My end-of-summer skin brightening routine has been working—the background melasma skin tones are nearly back to normal—but there is still some freckling & deep spotting.  Thus my “need” for some extra make-up tricks.  Here are the 101 basics on evening out skin tones and what I did on my own face.

PRIMERS: A primer is a translucent gel or moisturizer that contains clear-toned pigment that will neutralize the offending colors in your skin.  Apply a thin coat under your make-up foundation or under a powder.

CONCEALER:  A concealer is an opaque, dense creme that has browned-out pigment to totally cover demarcation in your skin.  Apply over primer, under/over make-up foundation, under powder.

NEUTRALIZING POWDERS: A neutralizing powder is a mix of various minerals and pigments that are fleshy colored yet toned to a particular hue on the color wheel to counteract discoloration in the skin.  Apply as a last step over moisturized skin or primed skin or make-up foundation.

color-wheel

Because I have ivory-olive skin (a yellow-green cast) any injury in my skin takes on a deeper greenish brown tone.  [Melanin clusters in the skin to protect itself when an injury occurs then continues to do when ever exposed to UV light.]  In my case, some summer time breaks out on my chin and some Black Fly bites on my cheeks left dark greenish-brown splotches.  So I blended a primer with a faint red-orange cast.   When you overlay colors that are opposite of each other on the color wheel they cancel each other out.  Red-orange over shadowy blue-green = neutralized beige.  I smoothed on a bit over my chin and on my cheeks.DSC05897

When congestion forms behind my eyes in the sinuses (for example the irritating dust from the project I am working has created this), my skin tones intensify and get an even deeper, olive-green.  To counter act this tone, I blended a concealer that has the tone opposite on the color wheel.  Red-violet over yellow-green neutralizes to make beige.  

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Because the pigment is concentrated in concealers, let the color tone do the work NOT the thickness of your application.  A little goes a long way; dab, dab dab, into place.DSC05905I applied a sheer coat of Moisture Foundation blended to match my ivory-olive skin harmonizing all other make-up dibs and dabs together while still letting my skin show through, freckles and all.  I finished by dusting my face with a more opaque SPF mineral powder that I blended with luminescence for a moist look and that I also tinted to neutralize my skin color a bit.  By “neutralize” I mean less tone-specific so that I could play around with any choice in eye, lip and cheek colors.DSC05909 DSC05910

Here I am in different lights and different angles.  I like the final result; more dewy evened out skin while still letting my own natural markings shine through.  (Forgive the grainy photography – these are IPhone Selfies.)Jane Balshaw luminescent powder; Euchlora.com

I can blend something just for you too!  jbalshaw@comcast.net 603-491-7305

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